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Forgotten in ruins, the magnanimous mansion of The Rajbari Bawali lay like a dethroned king for several years. In 2010, Kolkata businessman and hospitality entrepreneur Mr. Ajay Rawla, decided to acquire and resurrect it into its present glory.
Today, the luxurious heritage resort offers true Zamindari hospitality, prevalent in Bengal once upon a time. Dating back to the pre-colonial period, it pampers you with royal comforts, exquisite cuisine, and an ambiance that transports you to a bygone era of opulence.
In this article, let me take you on a romantic journey into its marbled hallways, and manicured lawns, into luxurious dining rooms and grand suites, through a virtual tour of this iconic luxury resort – The Rajbari Bawali, Kolkata. Let’s begin with the highlights of my stay?
Contents
4 Best Parts Of My Stay At The Rajbari Bawali Kolkata
# 1. Surreal & Poetic Ambiance
Every nook and corner of the Rajbari was handcrafted and narrated tales of Bengal’s royalty. Each decor element was a portkey to the past when silks rustled and the crunch of Nagrai Jutas (ethnic shoes) echoed in hallways lit with chandeliers. When the scent of Champa (White Plumeria) filled the air and life was poetic.
The grandiosity of the mansion rekindled my love for cinema and literature. It was fascinating to walk on the same corridors and to sit under the imposing portico that once witnessed the creation of cinematic masterpieces like Chokher Bali (2003), Goynar Baksho (2013), and the more recent Bulbbul (2020).
Each section of the Rajbari showcased versatility in architecture. While Doric pillars dominated the main building, rustic charm encapsulated the Notun Bari (annexed mansion) by the pond. The Bagan Bari (garden villa) was laced with greenery and even featured a private swimming pool! A perfect summer mansion built to enchant with its aristocratic elegance.
# 2. Traditional Bengali Hospitality
In a time when we waltz through our daily routine, the Rajbari’s kind hospitality beckoned me to pause and savor each moment. Upholding the Zamindari lifestyle, they pampered their guests with traditional customs and modern comforts. From welcoming Aarthis (welcome ceremony with lit lamp) to Mishti Mukh (ceremonial tradition of indulging in sweets) during departure to evening spas and candlelight dinners, The Rajbari Bawali went the extra mile to make me feel privileged. Zamindari khatirdari (royal hospitality), indeed!
# 3. Gourmet Meals Fit For The Kings
Lunch was a gastronomic extravaganza at The Rajbari Bawali. The lavish set-up with painted clay pots, orchids, and ornate earthenware for my Zamindari Thali was truly fit for a king.
With mesmerizing views of a fountain rippling the serene waters of a pond, I indulged in a never-ending array of traditional Bengali delicacies — a testament to Bengal’s age-old culinary heritage, preserved and cherished for generations. We’ll talk more about the food in the upcoming sections.
# 4. Intriguing Tales Of Restoration
“Restoration was a real struggle,” said Carolann Hooper, (host and resident at the Bawali Rajbari), as we strolled through the corridors late evening. The challenge was to find artisans who could recreate the artistry of yesteryear.
Hence, a selected team was sent to the Aga Khan Foundation to learn the art of lime mortar construction. While others were trained in traditional brick-making techniques. The idea was to stay true to the original architecture that reflected the opulent heritage of aristocratic Bengal.
Most of the decor, antique furniture, ornate wrought iron window grills, and wooden shutters were sourced from dilapidated colonial and pre-colonial buildings scattered across Bengal.
Today, the exposed brick walls, ornate friezes, and the crazy mosaic floor of the Thakur Dalan stand as emblems of grandeur that have endured the test of time.
Did You Know?
The history of the Mondal Dynasty of Bengal, the ancestral owners of the Rajbari, dates back to the Mughal era when they received 300,000 acres of lush green land from Emperor Akbar for aiding to suppress a rebellion. During British rule, the family prospered as rulers based in the 24 Parganas, on the banks of the Hooghly River.
However, with the abolition of the Zamindari system post-independence, the Mondals fell into ruin. The last king of the dynasty, Arun Mondal, lived and breathed his last at 102 in the lone standing room at the Rajbari amidst the dilapidated pile of rubble.
After acquiring the Rajbari in 2010, it took nearly a decade for Mr. Rawla and his dedicated team to transform it into a fully functional heritage hotel in Kolkata.
The Room At The Rajbari Bawali Kolkata
Room No. 215
I was hosted in Room 215 of the main building. And what awaited me behind the antique wooden door was breathtaking. A charming fusion of modern comforts and 19th-century Bengal aesthetics was achieved through architectural and creative finesse.
A streak of afternoon sun lit up the classic white marble flooring with a black border. The white lime water walls were adorned with pillars and arches. They stood against a high ceiling with exposed wooden beams, creating the perfect backdrop for immersing in the grandeur of Nawabi Bengal.
At one end, a high four-poster handcrafted canopy bed with curtains basked under the golden spotlight of a chandelier. A wooden step stool lay adjacent to it and a luxurious pillow menu awaited my arrival. The entire ensemble reminded me that the bygone era was one where each aspect of life was savored, and even bedtime was a ritual to be relished.
Touches of colonial charm blended seamlessly into the vintage vibe. The bed was flanked by two side tables adorned with classic aqua-hued, ceramic lamps.
A wooden trunk lay at the foot of the bed, a typical one used for storing brass vessels and other valuables. Quite similar to the one where actress Konkana Sen Sharma hides the jewelry box under a pile of blankets in the iconic scene from the movie Goynar Baksho. However, this one stored treasures of a different kind. An original Harry Potter DVD cover, and a couple of hand-me-down adventure novels stealthily stashed in the corner.
Another antique piece stood in silence near the wooden coffee table — a dual-sided, bronze mirror on a tall pedestal. A perfect piece that added elegance to the dressing routine.
A grand arch framed the old wooden shutter windows that offered a secretive glimpse of passers-by and guests arriving at the Rajbari. The view extended to a pond, its emerald waters reflecting the ancient Kali temple on the opposite bank, crafted in the likeness of the renowned Dakshineswar Temple.
The shutters were overlapped by traditional wood-framed glass windows, essential for Kolkata monsoons, and adorned with jute curtains from Mr. Rawla’s own Jute company, adding a touch of sophistication.
The Snan Ghor or the open bathroom with curtains, beside the toilet, was an intriguing inclusion in the room. While its traditional design ensured both privacy and hygiene, the exquisite toiletry range from Kama Ayurveda promised a luxurious bathing experience.
A narrow space near the washroom was converted into a towering closet that offered ample space for storage. Other amenities included high-speed WiFi, an electric kettle, a range of tea varieties, and coffee.
Other Stay Options At The Rajbari Bawali Kolkata
The Rajbari also kindly allowed me to explore their unoccupied suites and other mansions that served as iconic sets for various Bengali and Bollywood movies. So, here’s a quick description of the rest of the grandeur:
- Royal Suites
The dark gray walls of The Stewart Suite accentuated the room’s interiors lending dignity to the space. The marble-floored bedroom featured a grand four-poster canopy bed and regal blue couches, as hallmarks of aristocratic elegance. Traditional Bengali musical instruments like the Harmonium and a Tanpura adorned the window sill, subtly reminding visitors that the Zamindars were great patrons of fine arts.
The adjoining living room had a pompous display of artifacts and a unique collection of original paintings. Stately couches adorned the sitting area, while skylights and tall casement windows allowed natural light to stream through, bringing in a slice of greenery within the suite’s interiors.
TWT Tip: If you’re into luxurious baths, then we recommend Room No. 216. It features a massive bathroom with a vintage metal bathtub. Throw in a bath bomb or rejuvenate in a floral soak, either way, you’ll emerge refreshed and pampered.
- Bagan Bari
This annexe mansion enjoys seclusion amidst palm trees and landscaped gardens and boasts some of the most luxurious rooms in The Rajbari Bawali. Overlooking a private pool, the Bagan Bari with its turreted roofs, ornate wooden rails, and red-bricked walls, tugs at the heart of travelers eager to explore its rustic charm.
An enchanting space within one of its rooms was a raised workstation separated from the bedroom by intricately carved iron pillars. Adorned with vintage couches, a chandelier, a wooden chest, and a silver-plated mirror, the area reminisced the office of the Naib or finance manager of Zamindari estates.
According to the staff, many of these buildings are modeled after the original Mondal dynasty mansions, offering guests a chance to revisit the opulent history of the town.
- Notun Bari By The Pond
For a cinephile like me, the Notun Bari held special significance. Leaning against the porch rails, watching a pack of ducks swim by, I recalled a scene from the movie Bulbbul. A close shot that captured the protagonists during a clandestine meet at this mansion, exchanging poetry and whispering sweet nothings, flashed before my eyes.
The ambiance of the Notun Bari was laced with romance. Apart from its spacious rooms adorned in vintage ardor, the red mansion exuded a rural charm best enjoyed during twilight. The vivid red hue of the rustic villa glowed warmly under the pendulum lights, complemented by the varied shades of greenery surrounding it. Together, they appeared as a freshly painted landscape set against the dark canvas of the evening sky.
- Dak Bungalow
The Dak Bungalow stands secluded amidst lush greenery, with a private gazebo-style seating area welcoming you at the gate. A cast iron staircase winding up to the second floor offers the most mesmerizing views of a pond and the village life sprawled around its banks.
A bougainvillea in full bloom sweeps the second-floor terrace, adding a dash of pink to the bungalow’s stark white walls. The Dak Bungalow is ideal for travelers who yearn for some solitude. Its spacious rooms with vintage decor welcome you to a world where feudal lords spent their leisure hours in sheer indulgence.
- Choto Bari
I couldn’t visit the Choto Bari, since it was occupied. However, the rustic villa draped in greenery boasted an enviable porch that overlooked the pond. According to the staff, this retreat is perfect for a small family or a group of friends seeking solace amidst nature.
The Food At The Rajbari Bawali Kolkata
The Rajbari offers a variety of dining venue options. While my lunch was arranged at the Lotus Pavilion, my dinner was in a private dining room called Bougainvillea. And, breakfast was served at the Piano Room. In the evening you can head to the Verandah (relaxed dining area) for mocktails and snacks, which offers the best view of the Rajbari’s main building and Thakur Dalan (altar for worship).
1. The Zamindari Veg Thali for Lunch:
Gondhoraj Lebu – After 10 years in Chennai, the little earthen bowl with its display of thinly sliced pieces of Gondhoraj Lebu (an indigenous aromatic variety of lime similar to the Kaffir Lime) looked precious. It’s an ingredient that can enhance the taste of the most bland dishes. The lime can only be found in West Bengal.
Basmati Rice, Dal, Aloo Posto – Ask any Bengali and they’d agree that this trio is an irresistible combination. The Dal was thick and yummy, while the Aloo Posto (semi-dry potato and poppy seed preparation) was mildly spicy and creamy. It paired well with the steaming hot and aromatic Basmati rice.
Jhurjhure Alu Bhaja (Deep-Fried Julienne Potatoes), Kumro Bhaja (Pumpkin Fry), Bori Bhaja (Sun-Dried Lentil Fryums) – I took my time with each of the fried dishes. Though they were meant to be consumed with the rice and Dal. As always, I savored them untainted.
Shukto (Mix-Veg Stew) – This was comfort food. Deliciously creamy and savory with a hint of bitterness, the Shukto made me nostalgic.
Mochar Ghonto – This is one of my favorite vegetarian Bengali dishes prepared with banana flowers or Mocha. Due to its tedious preparation, it’s rarely cooked at home and there’s hardly any restaurant in Chennai that offers an authentic Mochar Ghonto (banana flower curry) as the one I tasted in the Rajbari.
Paneer Pathuri – This was a show-stopper. The mind that devised this masterpiece is a true culinary craftsman. Encased in a banana leaf, the mustard paste coating the paneer (cottage cheese) was a brilliant blend of pungency, spice, and savouriness.
Luchi and Channar Dalna – An all-time favorite, the Channar Dalna paired well with the puffed Luchis (deep-fried Indian flatbread). Dipped in a heavenly sweet and savory gravy, the tender pieces of Channa (Indian cottage cheese) melted in my mouth, making me crave for more.
Chatni, Papad – Aamshotto (mango pulp) Khejurer (dates) Chatni (chutney) with Masala Papad was a summer special at my home in Kolkata. The glossy viscous Chatni featured melt-in-the-mouth dates and generous toppings of cashews, all harmoniously blended in a sweet syrup. It was tempered mildly with Indian spices, creating a dessert that tasted deliciously surreal.
Misti Doi, Rosogolla, Sandesh – Wrapping up the royal meal with some traditional Bengali sweet delicacies marked the perfect conclusion to the gourmet spread. Smooth, rich, creamy, and mildly sweetened with jaggery, the curd was a delicate treat to my sweet-loving palate.
A Bengali meal is incomplete without Rosogolla (Rasgulla) and Sandesh (Bengali Sweet). Hence, without much ado, I invariably succumbed to these irresistible delights.
The Rajbari Bawali lunch price of Veg Zamindari Thali: INR 1300 + GST
2. Pan Asian Candlelight Dinner:
Veg Clear Soup – Crafted with fresh vegetable stock, the clear soup was light and delicious, prepping the palate before a delightful dinner.
Chilly Garlic Tofu – Battling the natural sourness of tofu, the chilly garlic seasoning created a burst of flavors in my mouth.
Stir-Fried Vegetables – Crunchy veggies in a medley of colors, mildly seasoned with Asian sauces, created the perfect blend of health and flavor.
Pan Fried Veg Noodles – Crispy noodles infused with a variety of fresh vegetables cooked with soy sauce, garlic, and other Asian seasonings resulted in a scrumptious main course that allowed me to indulge guilt-free.
3. Buffet Breakfast:
Though the spread included an array of delicacies crafted to suit the varied tastes of their guests, here’s what I indulged in:
Luchi with Cholar Dal and Notun Alur Dom – Having Fulko Luchi (puffed Indian flatbread) for breakfast is a sinful indulgence. I popped it in the middle and watched the steam slowly curl up. The Cholar Dal (Bengal gram lentil curry) with coconut was authentically crafted and perfectly matched the delicate flatbread.
And as if this heavenly combo wasn’t enough, the Rajbari paired it with yet another mouthwatering delicacy — the Notun Alur Dom. Made with baby potatoes cooked in a savory gravy, the trio stirred a whirlwind of nostalgia in my Bengali heart.
Gulab Jamun – Who can resist the wily temptations of Gulab Jamun? I quickly popped one in my mouth and felt it melt and envelop my palate in sweet ecstasy.
Mango Lassi – Cold Mango Lassi (sweet yogurt drink) on a hot summer day was absolutely refreshing. There were other juices and milkshakes on offer. However, being a mango lover this was my obvious pick.
Other Activities & Services At The Rajbari Bawali Kolkata
- Culinary Class/ Food Demonstration
If you’re curious about the Rajbari’s culinary secrets, you can request a fun food demonstration to uncover a few. Mine was arranged near the Kathal Bari, a mansion whose doorsteps are graced by jackfruit or Kathal trees. In their shade, I learned to make the iconic combo of Luchi-Cholar Dal.
- Sondhe Aarti
Every evening at 7 PM, chairs are set up at the courtyard before the Thakur Dalan (altar for worship) in the main building of the Rajbari and guests gather to witness the evening prayers offered to the ancestors of The Rajbari Bawali.
An enigmatic energy arises as the rhythms of Dhak (percussion instrument), Conch shells, Kanshor (musical instrument) and Ghonta ((bell) chime together, crafting a powerful spiritual ambiance.
- Mantra Spa
Relax and rejuvenate at the Mantra Spa where you’ll be treated to the secrets of Ayurvedic wellness. The spa offers a variety of services such as Avartana Therapy, Foot Reflexology, Signature Facials, Aromatherapy Massage, and many more.
- Swimming Pool
The Rajbari has a gorgeous swimming pool surrounded by lush greenery and terracotta changing rooms. If you aren’t a swimmer like me, simply bask under the sun or sip at a mocktail at The Gazebo by the pool.
- Fitness Centre
For fitness lovers who don’t like missing out on their workouts, the Rajbari has a dedicated gym with treadmills and weights.
- Bird watching & Romantic Walks Around The Property
An early morning walk in the landscaped gardens of the Rajbari offers a rare chance to sight various endemic birds such as Koels, Sparrows, Bulbuls, Parrots, Ducks, Kingfishers, and Tailorbirds that are rarely spotted in the urban jungle.
While morning walks in the fresh air were rejuvenating, evenings at the Rajbari were magical. With a swift swish of an invisible wand, the lights turned on and the ambiance turned cinematic. Discreetly placed warm lighting around the property mimicked the lantern-lit evenings of rural Bengal. It created an intriguing play of light and shadow that added a touch of theatricality to the surroundings.
- Bicycle Rides
I opted to take a morning bike ride to explore the entire property. And trust me, it was super fun especially as I pedaled through the narrow cobbled paths feeling the breeze on my face on an otherwise humid day.
- Outdoor Games
The expansive property offers a lot of scope for their guests to indulge in outdoor games. I also spotted a TT table near the Lotus Pavilion at the Durga Mandap.
- Tea By The Lake
The Rajbari has a picturesque patio-style seating arrangement near the steps of the lake. Flanked by terracotta pillars and marble elephants with a serene view of a fountain, the entire setup exuded a regal charm. I recall whiling away time, sipping tea amidst the surreal ambiance.
- Nouka Bihar (Boat Rides) at the River Lodge
The Rajbari Bawali has another luxurious property called The River Lodge nestled along the banks of the Ganges. Located just a 30-minute drive from the palace, you can either book a stay here or plan a boat ride from the retreat.
- Durga Puja & Other Festivals
Every festival is a time for celebration at the Rajbari. However, Durga Puja is a grand affair. The idol of Goddess Durga is handcrafted at the palace and the festival is celebrated in opulent grandeur. So if you’re in town during Durga Puja, don’t forget to drop in to witness the magnificence.
Short on time and can’t stay for an entire day? No worries, now you can enjoy the opulence of The Rajbari Bawali for half a day (12.30 pm to 4 pm) with a specially curated itinerary that includes a grand welcome, a luxurious stay, and a Zamindari lunch.
Cleanliness At The Rajbari Bawali Kolkata
Maintaining the expansive property is a Herculean task that The Rajbari’s dedicated team carries out impeccably. You can spot uniformed staff passionately working to preserve the palace’s grandeur. Every nook and corner was spotless and the rooms, including the unoccupied ones, were neat and clean.
Location Of The Rajbari Bawali Kolkata
The Rajbari in Kolkata is located in Bawali village, in South 24 Paraganas, West Bengal. The property is about 31 km from Kolkata and serves as a quick weekend getaway from the city. Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose International Airport is located about 45 km away from the property and Howrah Railway Station is about 32 km away.
TWT Experience Summary Of The Rajbari Bawali Kolkata
Rags to riches is truly the story of The Rajbari Bawali. Resurrected from ruins, The Rajbari Bawali thrives under the efficient management of Mr. Rawla and his team. Enveloped in lush greenery, the heritage hotel doesn’t merely offer luxury, it transports you to the novels of Tagore, and the cinema of Rituparno Ghosh and Aparna Sen. It allowed me to enliven literature that I grew up reading, and tread in the opulence of a bygone era.
The property is expansive and still expanding. It is a collection of spaces and mansions, each built or reconstructed in the architectural style that prevailed in pre-colonial and colonial Bengal. Hence, planning a stay in Bawali Rajbari makes for the perfect weekend getaway from Kolkata. A place where history comes to life and offers a rare chance to live the lavish life of a Zamindar.
Inclusivity Checklist:
✅ Pet-friendly
✅ Kid-friendly
✅ LGBTQ+ friendly
✅ Vegan-friendly
✅ Family-friendly
✅ Couple-friendly
✅ Eco-friendly
✅ Welcome drink
✅ Complimentary buffet breakfast
✅ Tea/Coffee Maker
✅ In-room safe deposit locker
✅ Multicuisine restaurant
✅ Swimming Pool
✅ Fitness Centre
✅ Spa
✅ Airport Transfers
✅Free Parking
Check-In Time: 2 pm
Check-Out time: 12 noon
Price Per Night At The Rajbari Bawali: INR 6,500 to INR 24,000 (excluding taxes)
Room Reservation Link: Booking.com
Location: Google Maps
Phone Number: 033-41800305
Frequently Asked Questions About The Rajbari Bawali Kolkata
1. How far is The Rajbari Bawali from Kolkata?
Bawali Rajbari is located 31 km away from Kolkata, which is about an hour’s drive from the capital city of West Bengal.
2. Is The Rajbari Bawali’s restaurant open to outsiders?
Yes, the Rajbari Bawali’s multi cuisine restaurant caters to both residents and non-residents. However, it is advisable that you make a prior reservation. While their Zamindari Thali is a must-try, the restaurant also has ala-carte dining options and serves a variety of global cuisines.
3. How many dining venues are there in The Rajbari Bawali?
The Rajbari offers 5 different dining venues that serve delicious cuisine in an Insta-worthy ambiance. These are namely Lotus Pavillion, Piano Room, Rooftop Cafe, Thakur Dalan, and Verandah. However, some of these restaurants are reserved for their in-house guests.
4. Can you plan your wedding at The Rajbari Bawali?
Yes. You can plan a lavish heritage-style wedding at Bawali Rajbari. You can even book the venue for your pre-wedding photo shoot. Their in-house event planning team helps organize weddings and other special events as per your requirements.
5. Is The Rajbari Bawali a pet-friendly resort?
Yes. The Rajbari Bawali is a pet-friendly property that allows you to enjoy your stay with your furry friends.
6. What languages are spoken by the staff of The Rajbari Bawali?
The staff of Bawali Rajbari speak English, Bengali and Hindi.
7. What business services are offered by The Rajbari Bawali?
Bawali Rajbari has a variety of event planning and business options. They arrange destination wedding ceremonies, business meets and conferences, and professional photoshoots.
The Rajbari Bawali Video Glimpses:
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4 thoughts on “The Rajbari Bawali: Experience Bengali Zamindari Hospitality At A 300-Year-Old Heritage Resort Near Kolkata ”
Beautiful article about a really nice place “Rajbari Bawali”. Very well written with minute details of facilities available. Also the food items which will be loved by foodies. Many people may not know about such a grand facility available very near to Kolkata. It will help many traveler’s across the Globe. Many thanks.
Thank you very much for taking the time to leave your valuable feedback on our content. 🙂
Loved the pictures and the detailed description. Would surely plan a stay here next time we’re visiting Kolkata.
Thank you very much for taking the time to leave your valuable feedback on our content. 🙂